Journeys way off the beaten path, and the power of everyday people.

Riding the history train

There used to be a train that ran through El Sauce, Nicaragua. During the civil war, it stopped running and after a time people took up the track to sell for money. The train was sold to Japan. Now, the former track is a dirt trail that runs from…

Elsa's: A family endeavor

Little Corn Island, Nicaragua: Wilma's mom opened Elsa's Place on the wind-swept side of tiny Little Corn Island years ago. Tourists from all over stay here, staying in simple wooden cabins facing the Atlantic. It's one of the less expensive beac…

Everything is new

Coconut bread. You must eat it. I walked toward the barrio and made a left in it, but saw nothing. Asked some kids. It's right there, they said. I saw nothing. Just dark, a closed reggae bar and a teen girl making out with a teen guy in a rocker…