Journeys way off the beaten path, and the power of everyday people.

Everyday people: A freedom fighter

"I gave my youth to fight in the revolution with Sandinistas. I saw the awful things what Somoza's National Guard did to people ... They shot people and left them in the street. Sometimes they lit the bodies on fire. If you were out after 5, it's…

Riding the history train

There used to be a train that ran through El Sauce, Nicaragua. During the civil war, it stopped running and after a time people took up the track to sell for money. The train was sold to Japan. Now, the former track is a dirt trail that runs from…

Lights out

Electric has been out all day in El Sauce. Dinner by candlelight.…

Everything's new

Little Corn Island, Nicragaua: Coconut bread. You must eat it. I walked toward the barrio and made a left in it, but saw nothing. Asked some kids. It's right there, they said. I saw nothing. Just dark, a closed reggae bar and a teen girl makin…

Elsa's: A family endeavor

Little Corn Island, Nicaragua: Wilma's mom opened Elsa's Place on the wind-swept side of tiny Little Corn Island years ago. Tourists from all over stay here, staying in simple wooden cabins facing the Atlantic. It's one of the less expensive beach…

Everything is new

Coconut bread. You must eat it. I walked toward the barrio and made a left in it, but saw nothing. Asked some kids. It's right there, they said. I saw nothing. Just dark, a closed reggae bar and a teen girl making out with a teen guy in a rocker…